tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post4942056472037302933..comments2023-10-06T01:15:50.055-07:00Comments on Manual: wiring tach part twoAngostura Bittershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18059116265834492301noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post-91662729041249143962010-03-04T06:55:38.995-08:002010-03-04T06:55:38.995-08:00thank you there cmduce - it was a lot of work but ...thank you there cmduce - it was a lot of work but i'm happy tooling around the local hills with this creation.Angostura Bittershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18059116265834492301noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post-59988100561923037172010-03-04T05:40:24.933-08:002010-03-04T05:40:24.933-08:00I just stumbled across this blog and all I can say...I just stumbled across this blog and all I can say is WOW ...You are very talented, I love the fiberglass work especially the tank and "airbox". I have a GSXR 750 and Honda Trx 250r quad, this bike your building is killer ! !cmgduce@yahoo.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post-75943022025145288282009-06-28T15:20:10.769-07:002009-06-28T15:20:10.769-07:00I think you have the right idea following the sche...I think you have the right idea following the schematic in the bottom right of the one diagram. In said diagram, there is a coil being powered on one terminal by 12 volt, and the other side is presumably the "pulse" side, throwing a grounding switch, causing the magnetic field inside the coil to collapse in on itself, creating high voltage which exits via the spark plug wire. Both the 12v supply and the grounding ("pulse side") wire appear in the XL600 schematic to be coming from the CDI unit. The CDI unit gets a signal from the crank position sensor, telling it to fire the coil at top dead center, and advancing spark based on how high the rpms are (adjusting for flame speed) and limiting the rpms to prevent them from going too high, saving you from valve damage due to valve "float" where the springs can not close the valves fast enough, usually this will hapen at extreme rpms. <br /><br />Anywway, the point is that just because there is a "-" symbol on the coil, doesn't mean that is a ground wire going to the frame. It just means that is the side that the coil's energy travels to ground through, the "switch" coming from the CDI, that closes every time there is a revolution of the engine (spark). So I think it will work if you connect the other two wires as shown, to ground, and then connect the red to the "pulse side" wire of the coil. There are only 2 small coil wires, and I bet it's the green one.Groundhoghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08085125688012990531noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post-12431094087611526602009-06-28T15:19:46.844-07:002009-06-28T15:19:46.844-07:00Aha, the black line...surely that'll do.
CA r...Aha, the black line...surely that'll do.<br /><br />CA regs say the lights are supposed to be on all the time. For this bike, they go on only when the engine is running. Only indicator and signal stuff draws from the batt directly. It's just a 3Amp 12 V thing, so not much there.<br /><br />There are some instructions for using the shift lights as indicators in the manual. I have neutral only (green). The other two: high beam, and blinker. Blinker is important for me b/c i can't readily see if the signalis are blinking otherwise.<br /><br />I'll attempt this config right now and report back.<br /><br />PS: sprocket bolts came yes. They are the right length but are threaded all the way so not optimal. They'll do in a pinch, tho...Angostura Bittershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18059116265834492301noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post-35069861818065737972009-06-28T15:16:50.398-07:002009-06-28T15:16:50.398-07:00This comment has been removed by the author.Angostura Bittershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18059116265834492301noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9102624311203641219.post-8807677345705898392009-06-28T14:01:10.330-07:002009-06-28T14:01:10.330-07:00Adam, if it is more convenient to tap into the ign...Adam, if it is more convenient to tap into the ignition switch you might try the "other side" of the switch - not the "goes into" or "RED" side but the wire that gets the power when the switch is thrown (black). Looks like this black wire enables some lights and the rectifier as well as the amp hungry horn (do you have one?). <br /><br />Maybe the "lights on" wire can go with the blue wire on the headlight... Is there a rule in CA to drive with the light on - probably- so this, I guess, is an indication that yer head light is "ON" and may not be a critical piece of info for the operator but maybe it's a legal issue.<br /><br />I like the wiring bundling workmanship and especially the side panels. This project is coming out quite well. Your tach connections to the coil seem okay. I agree with your choices. We're anxious to see how this setup functions. <br /><br />I'm guessing you have no provisions to know what gear you've got. I mean, is there a legacy sending unit on the engine for the new TAC to interface with and then illuminate in what gear the bike has selected? With a little experience this data can often be judged by the bike velocity and the engine RPMs. I'm sure you know this technique but not enough time on this particular motorcycle yet.<br /><br />I haven't heard about the rear sprocket attach lore recently. How is that part of the story and the 8mm CSK fasteners that might want a certain grip length...? Did you fit a new rear sprocket?popnoreply@blogger.com