curved trundlebed headboard surround ii

I continue with the headboard panel structure, leaving off here today

I began the weekend by adding a second layer of 1/4" wiggle-wood ply. This time I use glue alone to attach the wood to the substrate below (which was in turn attached to the plywood ribs/longerons via screws and glue). I elected to do this instead of skrews because i wanted to test how I'd apply veneer to the substrate using clamps and cauls, as opposed to some other means, like vacuum bagging. I just don't want to deal with that kind of regalia in my shop right now.

nearly every available short range clamp was recruited for the long panel

Here's a closeup of the cauls used, assembled from 1/4 birch ply scraps, and the offcuts to the rib cross sections

I didn't glue the vertical stiles for the frame/panel assembly so that I could scribe the curved part of the stile in the same plane as where it would finally be attached. Here I get a rough outline traced from my pattern, and then once within an inch of final dimension, I measure the offset into a long strip of thin plywood for a hole that a sharpie marker can fit into. I run this along the inside edge to get the actual location of where I want to make the cut with my dreadful sabre saw. blue tape helps with the line definition.

After some careful trimming, the panel sits close enough to the inside edge of the stile. It's not perfect, but I'm thinking since the panel will be nested inside the frame by 1/16" or so, small gaps like this won't matter so much.

Dry fit with the vertical stile now in place, seems OK

after practice, the other side was closer

Now the fun part, shaping! I"d been looking forward to this for a while! nothing like whipping out the spokeshave for some hot tapering action, baby.

interesting new manual/powered shaping tool integrated with glove

Here is an interesting link I came across on BoingBoing. A design by a fellow named Morten Grønning based on small powered sanders attached to a glove's fingertips. not sure it's my cup of tea but it is an unusual blend of hand tool and power tool...do you think Peter Follansbee would like one as a stocking stuffer for Xmas??? Link: http://boingboing.net/2015/08/06/sculpting-glove-prototype-comb.html

Trundle bed surround headboard, curved

From an earlier post, via 'ketchup, i am attempting a surround back for the corner built-in trundle bed in our guest room:

I begin by making an "L" shaped plywood base that I will in turn veneer with some of the redwood.

The profile and plan view curves are drawn to full scale on my new bench. I will lay out the frame components directly on top of the drawing.

I then focus on the frame components, which are oversized finger jointed pieces made from laminated redwood. I will glue the slanted stiles into place once the interior curve has been cut and faired. but I'll leave the vertical stiles unglued. I did it this way because I want to build the interior panels by scribing them into the inside of the slanted/curved stiles. I will need room to place these curved interior panels inside the frame in order to get the curve just so.

I'm sure this doesn't make any sense. gluing up the finger joints at angles was a colossal bitch. The glue grabbed and I couldn't recover on one of them. I used a bunch of hot-glue gun affixed wedges to allow for clamping, but the hot-glue wasn't durable enough and I probably should have gone with regular wood glue, allowing to cure overnight. This sort of thing should never have been hurried.

With the frames more or less shaped on the interior, I set out making a plywood rib-cage that will then receive 2 layers of 1/4" wiggle wood bendable ply. These skins will then be scribed as best I can into the inside edge of the frame, and then veneered with redwood

Loading the Hammer A3-31 into my shop

An exciting day, not enough photos but my companion Chad and I were too anxious about delivering a 750 pound machine from the alley beside my house, through a small lake of ginger rock, and into the threshold of my garage. The machine rests as it's sits here. And while I identify as a hand tool woodworker, the drudgery of milling material into the dimensions I need necessitate a planer. I've not had a jointer aside from my winding sticks, planes and bench. after about 3 years of consideration, I finally ordered a Hammer A3-31. Rob Pocaro's blog says enough about why I wanted this machine.

Herin are just some photos of the process getting it into the shop. We used 3 sections of plywood, leapfrogging to form a track for the pallet jack, through the ginger rock. no photos because one is not thinking about photos when you're not even sure you can get it done.

I am humbled at the patient assistance of my friend during this. I surely could not have done this on my own, and that's a good lesson about life.

I rented a hydraulic pallet jack for this operation. couldn't do it without one.

We incrementally raised the pallet up on cribbing from the various 4x sticks on hand around my shop. We then built a platform under the assembly, supported by 2x4 "joists" that were screwed into the temporary plywood underneath. then with a shop-made furniture dolly, lowered the pallet onto wheels to take it inside. From here, it was more shuffling and looking to see how the Austrians did it on their website, before we got it on it's own mobile base.

standing laptop computer station installed

Finally got the laptop standing workstation installed today. I sunk most of the important screws into studs behind the walls. Always a stressful moment fitting ergonomic furniture to 100+year old walls. I posted a video at the bottom of the how one could use the assembly in both a seated and standing orientation.

Here's the unit in action.

standing laptop computer station progress

More progress getting Sarah's standup/sitdown workstation sorted. Her birthday is next Saturday, and I am confident I'll have it installed before then. Below, see the laptop shelf at right next to keyboard mouse tray. When installed the shelf will actually be on the facing adjacent wall, at 90deg. Height adjusted for both fixtures using 5/16" bolts with nuts press-epoxied into wooden knobs.

the keyboard shelf is hinged with an original door hinge from the house that was removed during remodel. It's a gorgeous old Stanley sweetheart brass thing. Kind of sloppy motion for this application, but I enjoyed reusing the hardware for this. Notice the tension knob is recessed into the keyboard shelf. Normal operation would require sarah to remove the keyboard/trackmouse from the tray when folding up, but that's OK.

The laptop shelf has a full 19" of vertical translational movement because it also serves as a perch for the laptop when seated. It's best to not hunch over when looking at your lap top, and by elevating the screen to eye level, it should foster good posture.