Monday, June 8, 2015
Friday, June 5, 2015
More progress getting Sarah's standup/sitdown workstation sorted. Her birthday is next Saturday, and I am confident I'll have it installed before then. Below, see the laptop shelf at right next to keyboard mouse tray. When installed the shelf will actually be on the facing adjacent wall, at 90deg. Height adjusted for both fixtures using 5/16" bolts with nuts press-epoxied into wooden knobs.
the keyboard shelf is hinged with an original door hinge from the house that was removed during remodel. It's a gorgeous old Stanley sweetheart brass thing. Kind of sloppy motion for this application, but I enjoyed reusing the hardware for this. Notice the tension knob is recessed into the keyboard shelf. Normal operation would require sarah to remove the keyboard/trackmouse from the tray when folding up, but that's OK.
The laptop shelf has a full 19" of vertical translational movement because it also serves as a perch for the laptop when seated. It's best to not hunch over when looking at your lap top, and by elevating the screen to eye level, it should foster good posture.
Monday, May 25, 2015
a corner of our guest bedroom functions as sarah's writing desk and recently she had expressed interest in a standing desk for her laptop. I'm going to make a keyboard tray that bolts to the wall and folds up like in this video below. There will also be an adjustable height shelf in the adjacent wall where her laptop will perch and approx eye level. Everything should fold up as conveniently as is possible, without interruption of thought. twist knobs will fine tune the height of the components. Wireless keyboards/track-pads will be used.
There should also be room for a cup of coffee to spill off the top of the ledge. Welcome the splashes.
Sunday, May 10, 2015
Saturday, May 2, 2015
Well I've been busy making plywood boxes inside boxes. Working with sheets of plywood tests the muscular endurance quite a bit. Feeling pretty beat up but I think this cabinet/drawer installation will really help keep a lot tools/supplies/documentation out of the dust shroud that covers every surface here.
I used 3/4 birch ply for the cabinet carcasses with whatever extra scraps of cbx ply were kicking around the shop. Drawers and drawer fronts are 1/2" with 1/4" bottoms. Used lock-rabbet joints for drawer boxes. Full extension 75# sidemount drawer slides from Lee Valley when they had free shipping recently. they work okay, but demand you be really accurate with your drawer box sizes. I did okay, none of them were binding irretrevably and I didn't need to shim them.
This is General Finish's Milk Paint that I mixed in various amounts of Corinth Blue, Black, and Brick Red. I wanted to aim for a slate-purple but nobody around here sees it as purple. I'm colorblind and so it looked OK to me when I mixed it. I like the flat/velvety finish of milk paint well. It will scuff up a bit and that's OK.
I have my hand-tool box perched on the two ammo cans there temporarily. That space will open underneath the counter. I'll position the grinder and various sharpening habiliments on the countertop there eventually. Maybe a pattern maker's vice, too, if I can find one.
Sarah thought i was being pretty clever with my plywood portaging hack here, but there are plenty of ideas on the web of folks doing something similar. It really helps and I highly recommend you make yourself one if you're carrying even one sheet around. I can and have injured myself carrying these sheets around. My shoulders, and back do not regret it at all!
Here, i'm a bit farther along, all the drawerfronts have been applied, and there's a 2x4 web that I'm stringing across there for the "countertop" which will be 3/4 cbx ply and then 1/4 masonite.
Here are my quick-n-dirty drawer-pulls. You can imagine these being done on the tablesaw, first rabbet the edge of a board along the length, then rip to thickness, then cut the resulting stick to 4" segments, then a jig/sled that holds them at 45deg to take that last little nibble out. They are easy to grab hold of in the shop though probably not what you'd want to use in a more domestic setting :-)
the 1/2" plywood had a fair number of voids in it at $33.88 per sheet from MacBeath lumber in Berkeley.
Sunday, March 29, 2015
I always admired that quote by Jean Prouve: "never design something that cannot be made". here I am, flaunting that advice and wading into the deep end of the pool.
wondering how the heck i'm going to implement the following, a back to the built-in trundle bed for our guest room. overall dimensions are roughly 72" longx18" high, by about 42" depth. The trundle bed is built into the corner of the room, so this "headboard" wraps around the bed along the wall.
The idea being one could relax in an upright position and read or watch youtube videos or whatever. I wanted to make a little curve to the back for comfort, and a curve to the edges to soften the overall appearance of the structure.
So how do you make this? My running plan is a frame-and-panel approach, with coopered panels, and curved stiles. The problem is how to jig-up and route a stile groove that curves in two directions.
Sunday, January 11, 2015
I also know it's a machine with a reputation of biting you badly if you mistreat it. I intend to operate the saw with my best discipline
I chose this Grizzly for many reasons.
- Lots of positive reviews on forums. Here's a compelling youtube video by professional turner Stephen Ogle
- a very accurate fence,
- a router insert on the right side table.
- I've had good success with the Grizzly band saw and drill press
- Good customer service
- Made in Taiwan
- ~$1500 delivered to my door
- it has more than enough power for me now (with some room to grow into with working more challenging woods).
It arrived mid December 2014 via lift gate to by driveway. Here it is in it's current formation.
Grizzly tech support was very helpful, and they had a spare tilt shaft in their warehouse for something like $8 and change. I followed his instructions to verify that there was no damage to the trunnions. Since it was a slow tip-over onto a plywood floor, it seemed like the damage was localized to the shaft itself.
the upshot is that I had a week to spend removing caked on cosmoline, and waxing the gorgeous, flat machined table tops.
here, I'm doing my best to establish blade to miter slot parallelism. Using a 1/64th rule to measure the distance. I used the combo square to make sure the rule was perpendicular to the miter slot as possible.
So here it is, 32" high, 20" wide, made of crappy birch ply. Waterbased poly for finish. cutting techniques used:
- Rabbet for back pannel
- dado/rabbet drawer box joints (from Bob Lang's Kitchen Cabinetry book -- solid read!)