Saturday, June 13, 2009

on chain slack

Joel and I had a good exchange on chain slack earlier and I felt it needs a bonafide post with some hopefully clearer pictures to see how things look.

For review, here's what the system looks like with the stock dogbone connecting link (nevermind the blue tiedown, it's not compressing anything yet):

When I measure the chain slack, it's at about 1,1/4", the tight side of the manual's spec of 1,1/4 to 1,5/8".

Here's what I look like with my 1" lowering link (the gold member -- hehe):

Here's what it looks like with the pivot in line with the axes

And here is how much play is left over when everything is in line under light pressure with my finger:

Everyone says it's better to be a little loose than too tight and I agree. My question is whether this is too tight still.

And here's the unnerving part. If I had another link in the chain I would have some elbow room but this is awfully close. Tires do weird things sometimes, and this is less than 1/8"


  1. Looks good.

    Throw another link in there. If you don't like 2 master links, get a link riveter/chain breaker tool and a rivet-type 520 master link.

    Then, since your tensioner snail cams are only at setting 8 or so, you can tension the extra slack in the chain since you have so far to go on your tensioners.

    This will give you some comfort zone on your tire-to-swingarm gap.

  2. I agree with Grunndhog. It looks like you have it cornered. Another masterlink won't bother anything and it will give you some maneuvering room with your tension adjusters on the axle. That close tire clearance will slowly reduce as the tire wears. Rear tires wear more than the front. It is a pretty fine clearance though.