Still, the thing felt a LOT hotter than what I recall my 650L got in the minute or two that it was idling on it's own in that time. and then as I was backing it out of the garage to go do some DOT approved test runs up and down the street, engine died and would not come back to life.
First thought was: carbs might have a booger in the idle circuit. Since the thing wasn't going to be doing anything for an hour anyway I decided to yank the carb assy (Forgot how much fun that was!) and just give everything a once over since it had been sitting for so long...all those seals hate drying out with no gasoline running through. This time was much easier because I replaced every OEM phillips screw with an equivalent stainless allen head in the rebuild. This turned a screwdriver and four-letter-word shouting afternoon into a non-event: an old lady's fart out on a windy Manhattan street would have proved a greater interruption.
Everything looked okay inside the carbs, altho I did see a little residue in the pilot jet -- likely because I made the mistake of running dirty gasoline from the original bike thru the carb when I started it back in '07...dumb. Still not something I'd expect to cause the bike to die like this.
Somewhere after I was too committed to yanking the carbs, I recalled that the valve clearance could definitely be an issue from the forums and most recently here. Then Joel, the XL600 Whisperer, chimes in here from my previous post
That's right, you'd better start it!
You adjusted the valves I'm sure. You may want to do it again. Also make sure the manual decompresor (on the right exh. valve) is adjusted right and not decompressing even a little.
Try turning the idle screw up. Way up. You can always turn it back down.
Still only runs on choke? Now look for leaks on the intake manifold. Unlit propane torch, WD40, starting fluid, you know, to see if the idle perks up any.
The reason it may not have restarted is that if you don't get it all the way warmed up to about 150 or so degrees, it is somewhere between wanting choke and not wanting it, so it is hard to start. This is made worse if the idle is set way too low. Then you try to correct that with opening the throttle, and without the right feel for doing so, it can kick back on you if you open the throttle too much. Sometimes in this confused choke/no choke situation the best thing to do, with the idle adjusted crrectly to start with, is to just turn the choke off and kick it about six times. Around the sixth kick, you may be able to apply the slightest throttle to coax it, and it should sputter right to life.
Good work, FINALLY you start it. Took you long enough, you Really Finnicky Vulnerable Creep.
Will check those valves tonight, Joel, PROMISE! Not so sure about hte Creep part...but claims of my vulnerability are nothing new :)
Meanwhile, SIDEBURN Magazine left a nice oomph in my direction today. Funny because I just sealed an envelope for their latest issue yesterday. If you haven't checked it out, a very lovely print magazine, so always an honor to get on their radar.
Check 'em out, I personally can't wait to read about D. Mann and that builder in So. Cal, Mule: